西班牙的大教堂 (2)-Cathedral of Toledo Part one

托雷多是個保存極完好的古城，五百年來少有改變；因此，「聯合國教科文組織」(UNESCO) 文化遺產加以保護。步行於舊城區內，彷彿置身一座露天博物館；古城內首屈一指的景點是托雷多大教堂（Catedral de Toledo），始建於西元1226年，耗時約300年才竣工，是法國哥德式建築，外型宏偉且華麗。教堂內富含藝術氣息，收藏包括格雷哥（Greco）、戈雅（Goya）、范戴克（Van Dyck）的畫作；過去的聖器室今日改建成美術館，展示肅穆莊嚴的宗教畫，可謂是藝術畫作的寶殿。 除了大教堂外，畫家格雷哥的故居也吸引不少人潮。格雷哥是十六世紀活躍在西班牙的畫家，不過他卻是希臘人，他成為當時西班牙皇室最重視的畫家。他的畫作一部份展示於馬德里的美術館，一部份在托雷多大教堂，還有一些放置在他的故居。現在已將他的故居改建為美術館，開放大眾參觀。格雷哥畫作的特點是人物的表情栩栩如生，十分傳神，而四肢有些過度瘦長。
主教堂內部精華:Inside, among the cathedral's many art treasures, the El Transparente altar stands out – a wall of marble and florid baroque alabaster sculpture overlooked for years because the cathedral was too poorly lit. Sculptor Narcisco Tomé cut a hole in the ceiling, much to the consternation of Toledans, and now light touches the high-rising angels, a Last Supper in alabaster, and a Virgin in ascension.
The 16th-century Capilla Mozárabe, containing works by Juan de Borgona, is another curiosity of the cathedral. Mass is still held here using Mozarabic liturgy.
Immediately to your right as you enter the building is a beautifully carved plateresque doorway by Covarrubias, marking the entrance to the Treasury. The Treasure Room has a 500-pound 15th-century gilded monstrance by Juan del Arfe, a silversmith of German descent (allegedly made with gold brought back from the New World by Columbus) that is still carried through the streets of Toledo during the feast of Corpus Christi. Also of note in here is a small Crucifixion by the Italian painter Cimabue.
Other highlights of the cathedral include Goya's Arrest of Christ on the Mount of Olives and El Greco's Twelve Apostles and Spoliation of Christ (El Espolio). The latter, one of El Greco's earliest works in Toledo, offended the Inquisition, which accused the artist of putting Christ on a lower level than some of the onlookers. El Greco was thrown into prison, where his career might have ended had he not by this time formed friendships with some of Toledo's more moderate clergy.<詳情下集分曉>右圖是大教堂清晨時景!

專文拜讀:
遊西班牙／到托雷多　走進活生生的古蹟　逛街像逛迷宮 2004/02/24 15:34

記者王以瑾／西班牙報導．攝影

時間似乎忘了托雷多(Toledo)的存在，21世紀的今天，這裡依舊維持著數百年前的面貌，走在圓石舖地、繁如蛛網的道路中，容易迷失方向，也容易有時空錯置的恍惚；托雷多有一個整座城的古蹟，一個人們還生活在此的活生生古蹟；這裡已被聯合國教科文組織列為人類重要資產。 這座托雷多古蹟城位於河岸山丘上；太和河將托雷多劃為兩部分，舊城區的市中心在北方，這裡從2世紀之後就接受羅馬人統治，經歷多次戰亂，從羅馬帝國的入侵與統治，到當地的卡斯提亞君主與摩爾人的領土爭奪，不同信仰的人們爭爭吵吵了幾個世紀，沒想到最後並未爭個你死我活，天主教徒、回教徒、猶太人反而在此相容同居了幾百年，也共同創造了托雷多的璀燦風華，這種平衡局面直到中世紀才被打破。 雖然時代變了，但托雷多舊城區內的建築並未跟著改變，中世紀與猶太區內，許多巷道仍維持圓石舖路、極其狹窄的古老風味，有些順應地形，道路坡度很陡，走起來還有點累人。
@ Cathedral of Spain (2-2)